The air changes the moment you get to Şavşat, and if you came up from the heat down below, the first thing you'll do is reach for a jacket. Forest stays low, the road to the highland climbs above it, and a square sits in the middle of the village — each one offering its own kind of quiet. You don't have to know which way to walk, and nobody here is rushing you; let the altitude go to your head, release the dice, and wherever it lands is tonight's plan.